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Journal of Applied Mechanics and Technical Physics

2021 year, number 4

Assessment of the Influence of Frequency Dispersion on the Characteristics of Interaction Single Waves with a Flat Coast Slope

O. I. Gusev1,2, G. S. Khakimzyanov1,2, L. B. Chubarov1,2, D. Dutykh3,4
1Federal Research Center for Information and Computing Technologies, Novosibirsk, Russia
2Novosibirsk National Research State University, Novosibirsk, Russia
3University of Grenoble-Alpes, Grenoble, France
4University of Savoy Mont Blanc, Chambery, France
Keywords: surface waves, water-land boundary, runup on shore, nonlinear dispersive shallow water equations, boundary conditions on the water-land boundary, numerical modeling


This article focuses on the effect of frequency dispersion on the wave runup height and the characteristics of the surface waves reflected from the coastal slope. The calculations are performed within the framework of nonlinear dispersive and dispersionless shallow water models using the original boundary conditions on the movable water-land boundary. We consider the problem of solitary wave runup on flat coastal slopes with parameters close to the characteristics of one of the Kamchatka bays, for which the authors obtained probabilistic assessments of the tsunami hazard. The obtained results show that the maximum runup and amplitudes of the reflected waves are overestimated by the dispersionless model by 100%.