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Chemistry for Sustainable Development

2022 year, number 6

Physicochemical Investigation of Homespun Cult Objects of the Khanty and Mansi Made at the End of the XVIII Century

E. V. KARPOVA1, YU. S. SOTNIKOVA1,2, A. V. LASTOVKA1,2, A. V. BAULO3, I. V. SALNIKOVA3
1Vorozhtsov Novosibirsk Institute of Organic Chemistry, Siberian Branch of the Russian Academy of Sciences, Novosibirsk, Russia
2Novosibirsk National Research State University, Novosibirsk, Russia
3Institute of Archaeology and Ethnography, Siberian Branch of the Russian Academy of Sciences, Novosibirsk, Russia
Keywords: ancient textiles, high-performance liquid chromatography, IR spectroscopy, scanning electron microscopy, the Ob Ugrians
Pages: 585-594

Abstract

Results of the multidisciplinary investigation of unique cult objects of the Ob Ugrians are reported. These objects were discovered during field work in the Berezovsky district of Khanty-Mansi Autonomous Territory - Yugra. The first item is a head scarf, which is a sacrificial gift to the Mansi deity Mis-Ne (Forest Woman); the second is a fragment of clothing of an ittarma figure (the Khanty family spirit). The third item (a head scarf) had no embroidery, but part of it was made of handmade fabric. The artefacts were used in the ritual practice of the northern groups of the Ob Ugrians and were probably imported, since the art of embroidery and the skills of hand-weaving existed in the 18th-19th centuries only among the southern groups of the Khanty and Mansi. The analysis of fibres and identification of embroidery dyes for hand-woven products of the turn of the 18th-19th centuries were carried out. The samples were studied by IR spectroscopy, scanning electron microscopy, and high-performance liquid chromatography with diode array detection. As a result, the plant structure of the fabric of products (presumably nettle fabric) and the composition of decoration dyes and pigments were determined.