TRADITIONAL BARGUZIN BURYATS’ CLOTHES IN THE XIX - EARLY XXI CENTURIES: ETHNOGRAPHIC AND LINGUISTIC ASPECTS
V.V. Lygdenova1, Ye.G. Damdinova2
1Institute of Archaeology and Ethnography SB RAS, 17, Lavrentieva Av., Novosibirsk, 630090, Russia
2Buryatsky State University, 24 a, Smolina Str., Ulan-Ude, 670000, Russia
Keywords: Buryat traditional clothes, Barguzin Buryats, national costume, shoes, hats, Buryat sub-ethnic groups, indigenous peoples of Siberia, ethnography, anthropology
Abstract
The paper considers main stages of transformation of the Barguzin Buryat traditional costume in the XIX - early XXI centuries. Currently one observes the growth of interest to this sub-ethnical group that can be explained by the Barguzin Buryats’ Association high activity, attracting public attention to the history of the Bargut ancient tribe settled in the Barguzin valley in the early Middle Age. The paper relevance is also explained by the fact that the Barguzin Buryat material culture and history has not been deeply examined. The article objective is to reveal main stages of the traditional clothes transformation based on the archival and field data. In the XVIII - early XIX centuries Buryats started migrating from the Upper Lena River banks to the Barguzin valley, therefore this time period was chosen to study. During three centuries of neighboring with Evenks and Transbaikal Buryats the traditional costume of Barguzin Buryats significantly changed due to adaptation to climatic conditions and new social-cultural realities. The article’s first part represents specific features of the Upper Lena Buryats, because Barguzin Buryats belonged to this ethnic group. Then it shows the analysis of the costume changes in the early-mid XX century. The paper’s third part describes modern tendencies in Barguzin costumes. As a result borrowings from the costumes of Transbaikal Buryats and Evenks are revealed: unique details in summer clothes decoration and hats originated in Transbaikal Buryat costumes, Evenk borrowings of winter clothes and fur shoes, etc. In addition, the article reveals linguistic peculiarities and similarities in the clothes’ terminology of Barguzin and Upper Lena Buryats dialects, which confirms the originality and authenticity of the Barguzin Buryat costume.
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